The Abras of Deira

Navigating the Waters of Connection

Denzil Jayasinghe
3 min readMay 22, 2024

The historic docks bustled with activity in the vibrant heart of Deira under the bright Arabian sun. The traditional abra boats bobbed in the water, their presence as much a part of the landscape as the old stone steps leading down to the creek. In this setting, the boatmen found respite in the shade, their conversation blending seamlessly into the tapestry of sounds that characterised the docks.

The abras, with their wooden frames and gentle rocking, were a testament to Dubai’s maritime legacy. Lined up in an orderly fashion, they awaited their next voyage while the boatmen, clad in simple attire like loose pants and sarongs, watched their running motors. The expressions on their faces spoke volumes of the countless journeys they had made across the creek, ferrying passengers between the two pulsating halves of the city.

The dock was a vibrant mix of individuals, each eagerly waiting for their turn to traverse the waters. The crowd was a mosaic of modernity and tradition, with people donned in everything from work attire to the flowing robes of the region. Among them, young boys darted about, their youthful exuberance a clear sign of their aspirations to captain an abra themselves one day.

Crossing the creek was far more than a mere commute; it was a daily ritual that intricately wove together the city's fabric physically and emotionally. The boatmen, guardians of this ritual, counted each passenger carefully, their voices resonant and assured. For some, this counting was an impromptu lesson in Arabic numerals, a cultural exchange that unfolded with each rhythmic “Wahid, Itnan, Thalatha.”

As the day progressed, the abras glided across the water gracefully, each journey shaded from the midday sun by plastic covers unfurled by the boatmen. Meanwhile, the larger dhows conducted their business quietly, their 20 to 30-foot lengths starkly contrasting with the smaller abras. Occasionally, the deep horn of a tugboat punctuated the air, adding to the symphony of the docks.

The boat decks offered no formal seating, only a wooden platform where people sat beside each other. Once an abra reached its capacity of twenty souls, it would set off, making way for the next to begin its embarkation process.

The docks were alive with a rhythmic ballet of movement, a perpetual ebb and flow of comings and goings. It was a visual symphony of departures and arrivals, where individuals seamlessly glided from one abra to the next, participating in the daily dance of life that connected the shores of Deira and Dubai. This fluid exchange, this dance across the water, was not just about reaching a destination; it was the essence of the creek’s vibrant pulse, a shared journey woven into the very fabric of the city.

Image belongs to original owners. Copied from https://images.app.goo.gl/Z3DEtaCKEaqZs77m7

These abras, the sole practical link between Deira and Dubai, were more than just vessels; they were carriers of stories, connections, and shared history. As each boat embarked on its journey, the boatmen collected a modest fare of 25 fils from every passenger, a small price for a passage that bridged more than just the physical distance — it bridged lives.

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Denzil Jayasinghe
Denzil Jayasinghe

Written by Denzil Jayasinghe

Lifelong learner, tech enthusiast, photographer, occasional artist, servant leader, avid reader, storyteller and more recently a budding writer

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